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Glycolic acid is in the class of AHA (=Alpha Hydroxy Acid) skin products, and it is a sort of “Swiss Army knife” for skin care. It can be derived from something as commonplace as sugar cane--but don’t let that fool you. At high concentrations--over 20%--it is used as a chemical peel, to expose the underlying layer of skin cells. (At such concentrations, it should preferably be used by a professional dermatologist.) At lower concentrations, you can see it used for exfoliating the skin, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and treating and preventing acne breakouts. It can even be used to treat acne scars. For people with darker complexions, or with those suffering from age spots or hyperpigmentation, glycolic acid washes can lead to more even skin coloration. You’ll see Glycolic Acid face washes in a number of forms: there are gels that you apply to wet skin, as well as pads soaked in the Glycolic Acid solution, to get dirt and excess oils from the pores and prevent blackheads.
We’ve composed this buyer’s guide to help you make the right decision when selecting a glycolic acid face wash. It'll help you:
Choose the right type of glycolic acid face wash,
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Pads--Replenix Acne Solutions make pads that contain 5% glycolic acid and 2% salicylic acid. The glycolic acid will unclog pores, exfoliate, and remove dead skin cells. The salicylic acid is effective in preventing and treating acne.
Gels--Toulon makes an exfoliating and cleansing gel whose main ingredient is glycolic acid. It comes in a low concentration of 3%, to gently exfoliate the skin. Another gel is that produced by DermaSafe--they call it a “face scrub”. They recommend applying it to wet skin. You then massage it into a lather, cleansing your face over the course of a minute. Then rinse off the product.
Good for removing scars: If you just underwent surgery, there are glycolic acid-based compounds that can help fade scars. In low concentrations, glycolic acid is a mild exfoliant. It will slough off dead skin cells, and then trigger the lower skin layers to heal themselves. This leads to less noticeable scars.
Match the product to your skin type: The DermaSafe Exfoliating Face Scrub is recommended primarily for oily skin that is acne-prone. The InstaNatural Glycolic Cleanser is suggested for all skin types. Toulon cleansing gel is recommended for removing lines and wrinkles and moisturizing dry skin.
Remove makeup before using face wash: If you’re using a face wash to control acne, it is important to remove any impurities from the pores, so as to allow for proper release of the skin's oils. InstaNatural suggests removing makeup before applying their Glycolic Acid-based wash. Some use another cleansing product prior to glycolic acid, either in liquid or solid soap form.
Sensitivity to sunlight: Even in the mild glycolic acid products, it is recommended using a sunscreen together with the product, and for a week afterward. This is because of increased sensitivity to sunlight (and the risk of getting sunburned) in the newly-exposed skin, after applying glycolic acid. Due to this sensitivity, some suggest using glycolic acid products at night, before going to sleep. Also, most skin aging is due to sun exposure--so a sunscreen is important for ensuring that the glycolic acid will bring you anti-aging benefits. The NeoStrata Foaming Glycolic Wash is very concentrated, at 18% glycolic acid--so sun protection is a must.
Role of astringents: There are ingredients in glycolic acid washes that contain astringents. These are compounds, such as alum or witch hazel, that shrink and contract the skin. They are useful in countering oily skin, by closing pores. So, you’ll commonly see them in glycolic acid products for acne.
Replenix--is a brand of skin care products made by Topix Pharmaceuticals, Inc., which is based in West Babylon, NY. The Replenix brand includes an acne treatment, as well as eye cream, body lotion, anti-photoaging kits, serums, and hydration balms.
Toulon Skincare--is a skincare products company based in Anlee Road, New Jersey, and London, England. They specialize in plant-derived glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, Vitamin C, and more. Toulon makes moisturizers, eye cream and gel, exfoliating compounds, and more.
InstaNatural--started as a small skincare solutions business in Orlando, Florida. They make oil-based products for skin care, body care, hair care, cosmetics, and aromatherapy. Their skin products can treat sensitive skin, enlarged pores, acne, hyperpigmentation, and aging.
NeoStrata--was founded in 1988 by Dr. Eugene Van Scott and Dr. Ruey Yu. The founders discovered the relationship between Alpha Hydroxy Acids, (such as glycolic and lactic acid) and healthy skin, and their role in reversing skin damage and aging. Their products are acclaimed by doctors and used in spas and salons.
DermaSafe--is a company based in Wilmington, Delaware. They make skin care products for exfoliating, as well as glycolic acid washes and facial cleanser.